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These Passover pancake noodles are better than matzo balls

This article was originally published in The Nosher.

Last April, when the pandemic was raging in my area, I opened my front door to my dear friend Natalie. Natalie literally threw her bag of plastic sandwiches at me from afar, containing huladra, a cherished Passover tradition of her family.

While not as common as the universally beloved matzah balls, these Passover egg noodles are made from thin crepes that are coiled and shredded, and a steaming broth is poured over them. . Natalie’s family recipe was inherited from her mother Tante her Ilse, who immigrated from 1939 Crystal Her Nacht Germany.

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Ask about huradora and you’ll find that the topic covers as many areas as the history of delicious noodles. Flädla, also spelled Flädle, did not begin as a Passover food but evolved into a dish that reflected the ingenuity and frugality of Eastern European Jewish cooks who repurposed leftover dough and pancakes into noodles.

Noodles were an important part of the Ashkenazi diet. Medieval Europeans began boiling the dough in water rather than baking or frying it. In The Encyclopedia of Jewish Cuisine, Gil Marks writes that the noodles were mainly used in soups, and that some cooks chopped matzah meal blintz into a liquid. did not.

Recipes for Passover noodles are included in many Jewish cookbooks. In particular, June Faith Hirsch’s book of recipes for Holocaust survivors titled “Recipes Remembered: A Celebration of Survival” shows how deeply rooted the dish is in people’s memories. The recipe, sometimes called loxhen, which means noodles in Yiddish, uses matzah meal or potato starch, and the thin crepes are always fried and cut into strips the same way.

It’s difficult to pinpoint when, where, and who first adapted these noodle ribbons for the holidays. “What appeals to me the most,” says her Gaby Rossmer, co-author with her daughter Sonya Gropman and author of The German-Jewish Cookbook. they follow the route. I can see it, but I can’t tell exactly which came first and which came later. ”

Many Jews lived in southern Germany, like Natalie’s ancestors and Rosmer. In Swabia, pancakes are known as flädle. Recipes have been passed down for generations. By tradition, crepes should be thin and crisp. Flädlesuppe was a popular dish, but “it was never used for Passover,” says Rossmer. She fondly recalls, when she was one year old, when she came to America from Bavaria, she would often fry flour crepes with her father. Her goal was always to have enough left over to make a fredlshuppe.

According to Nino Shea Weiss, a Jewish food guide to Vienna and blogger at JewishVienneseFood.com, noodles are an important component of the popular Austrian soup called frittätensüppe, or pancake soup, and are always Made with beef broth. There, crepes are called parachinken. A cut called fritterten. “The Jews seemingly love them because they cannot live the eight days of Passover without them,” he comments, noting that the Passover frittaten is simply paysahadike lokshen (passover It is known as noodle kosher, he added.

According to legend, the frittänshuppe may have originated in 19th-century Austria, where Austrian, French, and Italian diplomats were fed during secret meetings at the Congress of Vienna. One of his participants was contelomano de his frittata, whose coachman prepared pancakes. Frittata comes from the Italian word friggere, which means to fry. Perhaps suggesting that this dish was named after the coachman’s employer. However, the only similar Italian-Jewish recipe I could find is in The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Juedi by Edda Servi Machlin, Minestra di Sfoglietti Per Pesach, containing freshly baked dough noodles. It was a soup… If the story is true, this dish hasn’t made it back to Italy.

Holocaust survivor Cecil Gruer, 86, is known as the family chef. She fondly recalls eating huladra at her first Passover, which she celebrated with her family in an Austrian refugee camp after their family reunion in 1946. Then, in her teens, she watched her mother prepare her noodles, just like she did in Hungary. Greuer makes huladla year-round with potato starch, matza meal, or quinoa or almond flour for his gluten-free relatives. Sometimes she just mixes eggs and water, essentially an omelet, and Gruer suggests adding herbs like dill and coriander to enhance the soup’s flavor. She continues these traditions because “you don’t want to break the chain,” she says.

Gruer and Natalie’s family enjoys huladola, chicken soup with matzah balls. According to the Gebrocz custom, the Lubavicians, who do not eat any food in which the matzo comes in contact with liquids, put only noodles in the soup, says Leah Koenig, author of The Jewish Cookbook. Gruer says he doesn’t like chicken soup. How does she eat huladra? She laughs. “I want it on my plate!”

material

4 eggs

¾ tsp salt

1/4 to 1/2 cup chopped chives (optional)

4 tbsp potato starch

¼ cup chicken broth

oil

direction

  1. Beat the eggs and add salt to the yolks.
  2. Mix the leek and potato starch with the egg yolk. Add as much chicken broth as necessary for the mixture to have the consistency of pancake batter.
  3. Whip the egg whites until stiff and add to the yolk mixture (stir occasionally while cooking the batch to avoid separation).
  4. Heat a little oil in a frying pan and add enough batter to cover the bottom of the pan. Fry like a crepe and remove from the mold. Place the hula on paper towels to absorb excess oil.
  5. Allow to cool, then roll each crepe and cut into thin strips. Hula Dora can be made a few days in advance and refrigerated.
  6. Dip it in hot soup and enjoy.