How to make chicken enchiladas the Sonoran way
Enchiladas in Sonora aren’t the rolled, stuffed tortillas covered in salsa and a melted cheese crust that the word might first suggest.
The classic enchilada Sonorenses are built with a stack of tortitas de maiz – small patties that can be made using a corn-based dough or with a mixture of corn and potatoes, as we do in my family to give a lighter texture and flavor — which are layered with shredded chicken dipped in Chile Colorado. From there, the enchiladas are topped with finely shredded iceberg lettuce or collard greens, avocado, cilantro, radishes, and fresh Mexican cream for a beautifully messy dish of simple individual elements that create a complicated whole.
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How to make enchiladas
The simplicity of this dish means that each element must be treated with care.
Poached chicken can be prepared ahead of time or even substituted for store-bought rotisserie or pulled chicken with no loss of flavor or pride in the food being prepared. But be sure to make your own Chile Colorado, which is Sonoran’s signature red chile sauce and forms the basis for many classic dishes, including this one.
The longer the chicken simmers in the colorado chile, the better.
And by themselves, tortita pancakes are a simple endeavor with a big reward.
Recipe: Sonoran Enchiladas
Does: 4 portions
Step 1: Prepare the shredded Chile Colorado chicken
Skip the first three steps if you’re using pre-cooked chicken and stock. When it comes to making chili colorado, the goal is to thicken the sauce enough to coat the back of a spoon, with only a tiny drop dripping out. But, if you’d like to omit the flour used as a thickener in this recipe, you can substitute a tablespoon of the maseca, or just leave it out, although the sauce may not thicken as much without it.
Ingredients:
For the chicken pieces:
- 2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breast or thigh
- ½ small white onion, peeled and halved
- ½ head of garlic, lightly crushed
- 1 tablespoon of Mexican oregano
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
For Chile Colorado:
- 2 ounces of chile colorado peppers (anaheim/California).
- ½ small white onion, peeled and halved
- ½ head of garlic, peeled
- 1 tablespoon of Mexican oregano
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
- 1 cup strained chicken broth or as needed
Instructions:
- Bring 8 cups of water to a slow boil. Carefully add the chicken and simmer, watching for any foam forming on the surface and skimming off any that appear. After a few minutes, add the onion, garlic, oregano and salt, cover lightly and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 20 minutes.
- Leave the chicken in the broth to cool. Strain the cooking liquid and set aside. Once cool enough to handle, shred the chicken, but not too finely. Shelve.
- To make the colorado pepper, clean the peppers by removing the stems, seeds and any large veins and wash them well in cold water.
- Place the chiles in a small pot along with the onion, garlic, oregano, and salt. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil. Lower and simmer until the chiles are softened, about 15 minutes. Once soft, strain and reserve the cooking liquid.
- Blend cooked ingredients with enough cooking liquid to keep blender blades moving, adding small amounts as needed. Taste the dressing, knowing the sauce will taste slightly metallic.
- To toast the flour, heat a large heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat and add the flour, stirring constantly until it is a light golden color. Add 1 cup reserved, strained chicken broth and whisk to combine.
- Once smooth, add the red pepper puree, beating well. Make sure you don’t burn the pepper as burning causes it to develop an acrid taste. Simmer for 5 minutes, adding stock as needed to maintain a pourable consistency.
- Once the Colorado chili is shiny and thick, add the shredded chicken, mixing well to combine. The sauce should be able to coat the chicken well and not be too runny.
- Simmer the chicken in the sauce for at least 10 minutes to allow the flavors to meld together, adding broth as needed.
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Step 2: Make Potato and Corn Pancakes
The chicken in Chile Colorado can continue to simmer while you prepare these tortitas. The longer the flavors have to blend, the better.
Ingredients:
- ½ pound Yukon potatoes, peeled and cut into large chunks.
- 2 cups cornmeal (maseca)
- 2 cups potato cooking liquid, top up with warm water if needed
- Salt, if necessary
- Oil for frying to taste
Instructions:
- Place the potatoes in a pot and cover them with cold water, season lightly with salt and cook until fork-tender, about 20 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid, and let cool slightly.
- Coarsely mash the potatoes, add the harina de maíz and mix to incorporate. Add enough of the potato cooking liquid to create a slightly sticky dough that you can easily shape into a smooth ball (but don’t start making dough balls just yet). Taste the seasoning and adjust salt if necessary. Don’t mix too much as this can lead to a starchy, chewy dough.
- Cover the dough with a slightly damp tea towel and let it rest for 5-10 minutes, allowing the cornmeal time to fully hydrate. If dough feels too dry after resting, stir in a small amount of warm water, 1 teaspoon at a time. If it feels too wet, stir in maseca, even 1 teaspoon at a time.
- Divide the dough into 2-inch round portions, rolling them smooth and pressing into patties about ¼-inch thick. Do not stack uncooked meatballs together because they will stick.
- Heat about 1/2 inch of oil over medium-high heat. Fry the patties for about 3-4 minutes on the first side, flip and cook for another 2 minutes or until golden brown and crispy. Keep the finished meatballs warm on a wire rack in a hot oven.
Step 3: Assemble the enchiladas Sonorenses
Ingredients:
- Iceberg lettuce, chopped
- 1 bunch coriander, coarsely chopped
- A few radishes, thinly sliced
- Avocados, diced
- Homemade cream or cacique cream
Instructions:
- Place desired number of tortitas on a plate and top with a generous portion of chicken. Drizzle with more Colorado Chili Salsa and garnish with chopped iceberg lettuce, cilantro, radishes, avocado and cream cheese, to taste.
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Questions or comments? Email the culinary team at [email protected] Follow chef Minerva Orduño Rincón on Instagram @cucumbersandlimes.
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